WHAT IS FOOD NATIONALISM?
WHAT IS FOOD NATIONALISM?
Credits go to Dr. Ted Mendoza, PhD, the author of a fascinating book that introduced me to a concept that is both very new and very necessary in the Philippines: food nationalism. As far as I know, Dr. Mendoza is the only one writing about it from a scientific and professional perspective. And if you ask me, his advocacy resonates strongly with mine—fighting cultural appropriation and promoting geographical indication.
But what exactly is food nationalism? And why should we even care about it?
Food nationalism is not simply about celebrating adobo, sinigang, or lechon. It is about reclaiming our sovereignty over what we grow, cook, and eat. It is about protecting our culinary traditions as living testimonies of survival and resilience—pinakbet in Ilocos, inabrao in Pampanga, laswa in the Visayas, ginataan in Bicol, tinola and sinigang all over Luzon and beyond. These are not just recipes; they are declarations of identity, seasonality, and ecological wisdom.
Dr. Mendoza frames food nationalism as a strategic framework for reclaiming cultural heritage and ecological sovereignty in the pursuit of food security. If that sounds academic, let me simplify-- it means our food traditions are not just nostalgic memories, but practical blueprints for how we can feed ourselves sustainably in the future. Think about the bahay kubo song, which lists 18 vegetables—already a complete, diverse, and climate-smart diet.
Yet here’s the challenge: as far as I know, no government agency has picked up this advocacy. Not the Department of Agriculture (DA), not the Department of Trade and Industry (DTI), not the Department of Science and Technology (DOST), not even the Intellectual Property Office (IPO) or the National Commission for Culture and the Arts (NCCA). Shouldn’t at least one of them take the lead? Which one should it be? Or does it need an entirely new body dedicated to food sovereignty and cultural preservation?
Food nationalism also ties directly to global realities. The Philippines remains heavily dependent on imports—rice, garlic, onions, even galunggong. Every time the peso weakens or supply chains collapse, Filipinos suffer. This is not just an economic issue, it is a sovereignty issue. Do we really want to rely on foreign countries for our daily meals?
On the cultural side, we face the ongoing threat of cultural appropriation. Other nations are quick to claim dishes or ingredients as their own. This is why I keep emphasizing the need for geographical indication (GI)—a legal tool that protects products tied to a specific place, much like Champagne in France or Parmigiano-Reggiano in Italy. Why not “Pinakbet of Ilocos” or “Laing of Bicol”?
If you are a lawyer who knows about intellectual property rights, I urge you to join this conversation. If you are a scientist, innovator, or engineer, your knowledge is needed too. In fact, I have created Facebook groups for this very purpose:
· CULTURAL APPROPRIATION AND GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION (CAGI) for those interested in food and heritage.
· ROSTER OF SCIENTISTS, INNOVATORS AND ENGINEERS (ROSIE) for those who want to bring technical expertise into the advocacy.
Food nationalism is not just symbolic pride. It is also practical policy. Dr. Mendoza envisions it institutionalized through participatory reform—meaning ordinary citizens, not just experts or bureaucrats, must take part. That’s an inspiring idea: food as a platform where nationalism is not dictated from above but cooked, shared, and protected by communities themselves.
Some may say this is too idealistic. But consider the historical evidence. For centuries, colonizers tried to control our land and dictate our diets, yet we held on to our recipes, our farming cycles, our backyard gardens. That endurance is proof that food nationalism is not only possible—it is already alive in our kitchens. What remains is for us to recognize it, protect it, and scale it up.
So here are my questions for you, dear readers:
· What Filipino food or drink do you think has already been culturally appropriated by others?
· Which dishes deserve protection under geographical indication?
· And which government agency should be brave enough to take the lead in this new but urgent advocacy?
There are many ways to be a nationalist. Some wave the flag, others write the laws. But I think Dr. Mendoza is right: even in the simple act of preserving and promoting our culinary heritage, we are practicing food nationalism. And the best part? Anyone can join—no PhD required, just a love of country and a plate of pinakbet.
Ramon Ike V. Seneres, www.facebook.com/ike.seneres
iseneres@yahoo.com, senseneres.blogspot.com
